Paris Notebook


Avant Comptoir, Yves Camdeborde’s latest

This tiny “bar à hors-d’oeuvres” recently opened by Yves Camdeborde, one of Paris’s most coveted chefs and proprietor of the impossible-to-book Comptoir du Relais, is certainly one of the best places to open in Paris this year.

Anyone knowledgeable of the Parisian food scene will easily recognize Camdeborde, the jovial chef who unintentionally started the bistronomique food trend in 1992 when he gave up the world of Michelin stars by leaving the two-starred Les Ambassadeurs to open La Régalade, a modestly-priced bistro in the outmost corner of the 14th arrondissement. Other chefs soon followed suit and the Paris restaurant scene was transformed. Much to the dismay of foodies around the world, he turned over la Régalade to Bruno Doucet to open Le Comptoir du Relais, which soon became one of Paris’s most talked about tables.

His latest endeavor, in a narrow non-descript space which adjoins the Comptoir, turns out delicious, affordable small plates of the highest quality along with interesting small-production wines. Steamed Camus artichokes dipped in olive oil, piping-hot, addictive croquettes filled with Eric Ospital’s Ibaïona ham, delicious chipolatas fried in duck fat with garlic, pig’s feet croquettes, plates of excellent charcuterie, and wonderful seared cêpes are only some of the tasty offerings on hand. Claustrophobics might want to abstain as it’s standing room only at the zinc bar laden with a communal bread basket, a tub of Bordier butter, white jars of pickles and peppers meant to be shared amongst your neighbors.

Rumor has it that Inaki Aizpitarte is contemplating a tapas-style annex to his Chateaubriand, so hopefully Chef Camdeborde will have started the next new Parisian restaurant trend…à suivre

L’Avant Comptoir
3, carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th.

See the map here

Wines from 2 € a glass
Plates: 3-6 €

Open daily 9h-24h

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