Paris Notebook


L’Agrume

Posted in 5th Arrondissement,Bistros,Hot Spots by Phyllis Flick on March 6, 2010

This small néo-bistro located in an out-of-the-way neighbourhood in the 5th may have only opened in late December, but it’s already getting lots of press, and with good reason. The simple, modern dining room may not be much to look at, but the food more than compensates and the prices are unbeatable considering the quality and attention given to the food.

The night started on a low note. Our hard-to-get reservation at the counter overlooking the open kitchen was botched and we ended up in the dining room. A round of drinks and many apologies followed however and our disappointment vanished with the first course of the 35 € tasting menu, a delicious combination of creamy buffalo mozzarella, shavings of black truffles and a fragrant asparagus coulis.

The next course was just as good with delicate shredded crab, “petites legumes”, and a hint of tart green apple and lime.

The third course was perfectly cooked roasted merlu (hake) served with celeri rave and a delicate sauce scented with orange zest.

Next came chicken poached in a ginger infused kombu broth, probably my least favourite of the night, but still good.

We finished with two desserts, a silky vanilla panna cotta with a raspberry coulis and a chocolate mousse “boule” floating in a mint “nage”

The counter seats finally vacated and we had coffee at the bar and got the chance to talk to the charming chef who offered limoncellos as he finished up for the night. He told us about his stint at Le Bernadin in New York and generously showed off many of the products he uses each night.

This is definitely a restaurant I would return to and quick, especially knowing that once word gets out in the mainstream Anglo press, this bargain gastro bistro could soon become a very hard reservation to come by.

L’Agrume
15, rue des Fossés-Saint-Marcel
Paris, 5th
01 43 31 86 48
Métro: Les Gobelins / Saint-Marcel

Lunch: Plat du Jour: 11 €, Plat, wine and coffee: 14 €; Plat, dessert: 14 €; à la carte: 35-45 € for 3 courses
Dinner: 5 course tasting menu: 35 €; à la carte: 35-45 for 3 courses

Closed Sundays and Monday for lunch.

See it on the Map

L’Agrume in the press

John Talbott’s Paris
Fooding
Table de Decouvert